A Peaceful Walk-Through Urca and its Mureta

Journalled on Sunday, 21st of May 2023 | Flamengo, Rio de Janeiro: 26 degrees, hot, sunny, clear blue sky.

I was free to do whatever I wanted: read a newspaper or a book, watch Formula One, or work on the computer; I could do my own thing until about lunchtime. Since then, I have tried to keep that tradition going.

Sunday morning is reserved for me to do whatever I want; it is sacred, usually going wherever or doing whatever I want.

So, I left early while everyone was sleeping. I exercised at the park, then walked to Urca, on the opposite side of Botafogo Bay. It is just a forty-minute walk from Aterro to Urca; Praia Vermelha, with the iconic Sugar Loaf Mountain, is there. I prefer to go into the heart of Urca by turning left before arriving at Praia Vermelha.

Urca is an extraordinary place: a quaint, little, out-of-the-way neighbourhood in Rio that has been barely touched by time. It is tiny compared to other places in Rio; geographically small, with few of everything: few restaurants, bars, mini-supermarkets, one bank, one dry cleaner, etc., which is why the cost of living is so high in Urca, with very little competition.

Positioned at the corner of two streets and in a semi-circular shape, it faces the Mureta, a half-height wall that runs around part of Urca in front of the Bay.

To say that the view from the Mureta looking out over the Bay and to Flamengo on the other side is beautiful is not an exaggeration nor an understatement; at any time of the day or night, the vista is sublimely beautiful. Rio is also sublimely diverse in its beauty. As an amateur photographer, there are thousands of stunning views and shots to be taken in Rio, anywhere and at any time.

Bar Urca is a special place where people go to buy a beer, a caipirinha, and Brazilian bar food and snacks, cross the street that separates the bar from the wall, and sit on the Mureta wall, eating and drinking with friends while admiring the view and the movement in the Bay.

To also say that Bar Urca is full at the weekend is another understatement; it is usually heaving on both Saturdays and Sundays, especially during the day.

From this view, the landscape is so engaging that it feels more like a daytime bar than a nighttime one. This is very common in Rio; due to its good weather and natural beauty, many bars are for daytime use rather than at night.

The only downside of Bar Urca is that it’s more expensive than similar botequims, and for what you are really getting, you’re basically paying for beer and simple bar food with a privileged vista.

You can do the same as Bar Urca, buying beer and food, crossing the street, and sitting on the Mureta, eating and drinking; the only difference is that it is nearer the yacht club, so that you can see and admire more boats, and it is substantially cheaper than Bar Urca.

Since it is hard to make money in Brazil, every Real counts, so going to a more affordable bar is better. I arrived in Urca, more specifically Urca Grill, at the beginning of Urca at about half past ten.

Instead of getting a glass of wine, like I usually do, I got a coffee and a snack, crossed the street, and sat on the Mureta, taking in the view and where I was, feeling happy at that moment and on that sublime day. I stayed there for almost an hour; afterwards, I walked deeper into Urca to see if there were any new and interesting boats in the Bay.

Unfortunately, there wasn’t anything especially new or interesting, so I began my return home. I arrived back at about midday.

I showered, changed clothes, and spent the rest of the day chilling out and planning the coming week. It was a simple but pleasant day and weekend. We all had lunch together; Nalva cooked very well. I washed the dishes and cleaned up the kitchen afterwards. My name is still Dirt with my daughter.

In bed by 10 p.m.

Thank you.

Thanks for reading my blog. Check out my other posts and share your thoughts in the comments.

Richard

Photos by Richard George Photography

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