Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro: 26 °C, hot and sunny with clear blue skies.
Now that I live in Botafogo, getting to Urca on foot is easier than going from Copacabana. Urca is one of the most remarkable neighbourhoods in Rio.
Its small bucolic side streets, views of the Bay from The Mureta, which lines a large part of Urca, army barracks, which make Urca safer than other neighbourhoods in Rio, and quaint bars and restaurants sprinkled around the neighbourhood make it a must-see.
Sugar Loaf Mountain, in Urca, is one of the main attractions in Rio, along with Christ the Redeemer. I do not talk much about Sugar Loaf, as it is more for tourists than Cariocas living in the city. The first time I went to Sugar Loaf, I had already been living in Rio for five years, and it was only because my mother was visiting me for the first time when Jessica was one year old.
You do not need to do much to have an enjoyable time in Urca!
Just walk around the quiet tree-lined streets and appreciate the architecture of some of the houses, or eat in one of the various restaurants spread over the whole neighbourhood from one end to the other, visit the small quirky beaches with small waves, perfect for small children, or drink and eat bar food looking over the Bay, which I have already written about, or just chilling out.
You can also walk along the path that lines Morro da Urca, the first Mountain before Sugar Loaf; it runs along the mountain and faces the sea; it is fantastic. You can also go off this path and take a side path that leads you to the top of Morro da Urca without paying; from there, you can see the Bay, Niteroi, and half the city.
Sugar Loaf is also famous for one of the most iconic James Bond scenes in Moonraker (1979). Many events, such as shows, etc., especially in the summer, are held there; it has always been and probably will always be one of the most iconic points in Rio.
Like the Statue of Liberty in New York, which is situated in Upper New York Bay, Sugar Loaf is similar. When flying or sailing into Rio, you are always greeted with Sugar Loaf and Christ the Redeemer.
Urca is one of the most charming places in Rio. It has its own unique atmosphere and vibe, and I love it. I lived in Urca for about a year, approximately thirty years ago. I had already separated from Cibele and worked in São Paulo as a consultant for new boatbuilding technology from England to Brazil. I led a project that was expected to succeed.
Jessica was 18 months to 2 years old, and every weekend I would try to come back to Rio to see her, spend the weekend with her, and then go back to São Paulo either Sunday night or early Monday morning.
Living in São Paulo was incredibly good, but I did not want to lose Jessica’s childhood, so after a year and a half there, I decided to move back to Rio to be near her. Initially, I had nowhere to stay; I briefly stayed at a friend’s place. I then found a top-floor Urca flat overlooking the Bay.
I would not call it a penthouse because it was not luxurious enough to be considered one, but it was on the top floor with an enormous terrace balcony overlooking the water, the Bay, and all of Rio.
It was surreal to walk out and see the Bay, especially at night, with the lights from the other neighbourhoods and the streetlights from Aterro on the other side. I had both good and bad experiences during my stay in Urca.
What surprises me about Urca is that very few Cariocas have actually visited the area or are even aware of it. Many have never been there, some have gone only once or twice, and others still need to experience its charm.
This is where we are entering into another area of Brazilian culture. I have noticed that Cariocas, or Brazilians in general, need to learn to value Brazil and its culture, what it has, what is good, and what surrounds it.
There are many beautiful statues throughout Rio, mainly because Rio de Janeiro was the capital of Brazil. Walking around Rio, you will find many interesting urban sculptures, but you never see people stopping to admire them. If you see someone stopping to admire, it is probably a tourist from another state or abroad.
For me, it is ingrained in Brazilian culture not to value what they have and what is already there in front of them, and at least to preserve it. It is a fact that many Brazilian artists gained fame and recognition only in Brazil after being discovered abroad. Brazilian handicrafts from the northeast of Brazil only became popular and valued within Brazil after being discovered by people from outside the country.
I think the Brazilian government and past political and social actions have something to do with this. Urca is an extraordinary place in Rio, and Rio is an extraordinary city in Brazil, and both are underappreciated and undervalued by their people.
So, why am I talking so much about Urca?
On Saturday, I did my usual exercise routine, walked to Urca, and stayed there for about two hours. I walked around, took many photos, and saw all that it has to offer. I arrived home at about 1 pm, and we had a late lunch later that day. For dessert, I treated all of us to ice cream at the ice cream parlour next to our building. The ice cream there is particularly good, and the price is even better.
Yasmin is trying to befriend me, but I do not want to; it is cheaper for me not to at this moment!!!
In bed by 10 pm.
Thank you very much.
Thanks for reading my blog. Check out my other posts and share your thoughts in the comments.
Richard
